Monday, July 30, 2012

Things I Don’t (HEART) About Paris

What’s not to love about Paris? Really, I do love it here. It is funny because I regularly have this conversation with locals.

Parisian: How do you like living in Paris?
Me: We love it!
Parisian (scoffs): Doesn’t everyone?
Okay, yeah, why did you ask….any-who, on to the things I don’t <HEART> about Paris.

Being the Fattest Person Everywhere


On day three SJ looked at me and quietly whispered, “Mom, no one here is fat.” Uh, no. Not at all. In fact, they are all uber-skinny. And eat. A lot. Of bread. I am waiting for the French Paradox to kick in and drop these extra 10 lbs. gracefully, but while I am waiting, I am the fattest person everywhere. For reals.
Okay, this is my stealth photo of SJ at the phone store with an average sized French woman in the background. Yes, you can count all of their ribs (from the front!) and see all of the bones in their forearms. Good times, good times. 
 

The Light


Not the whole ‘City of Lights’ thing, but the actual sunlight. It is light out here until 10:45 p.m. every single night. This combined with insomnia and a penchant for rosé is a bad combination.

Dinner Hour


I have always been an old person. I did (briefly) go through the obligatory period in youth where I stayed out too late, but really, my preference is to be at home in yoga pants on the couch watching Netflix by 9 p.m. at the latest.  Restaurants don’t even open for dinner here until 8 p.m. and, remember, dinner takes about three hours which puts us at about 11 p.m.  And dining at 8 p.m. in Paris is the equivalent of eating at the Stockholm Inn at 4 p.m. in Rockford.

I Can’t Order Food from My Mom


Once, SJ was making a list of his favorite foods (he is my kid, after all), and the number one thing on the list was “Mimi’s Cinnamon Rolls.” He looked at me apologetically and said, “Your food is good mom, but Mimi’s cinnamon rolls . . .” Yeah, yeah, kid, I know.
My mom is an amazing baker. She can make beautiful coffee cakes, rolls, breads, etc. All things that require time, patience, and yeast. Things I have never been able to master. And, luckily for us…all it takes is the mere mention of something and, voila!, it appears.
Me:  Gosh, you haven’t made that heart-shaped almond coffee cake in a while.
6-hours later: Doorbell rings. Coffee cake delivered.
As SJ would say, “Mimi is the bomb.”
(Aside: when I come back in August I totally expect stuffed artichokes)

People Asking Me for Directions


I have mixed feelings about this one actually. First, it implies that I actually look like I know where I am going and, second, that I don’t look like a tourist. In Paris, blending in is not a bad thing.
However, I do have a difficult time giving directions in my hometown. I depend a lot on visual cues and locations that no longer exist (Oh, it is by where Logli’s on State Street used to be; Remember where Top Hat was? Turn there.; It used to be Lasers.). I am paralyzed when I must give directions to my non-native friends. Uh, don’t you have GPS on your iPhone?
So, yesterday some nice woman asked me where to find ‘il poste’ (post office). There is literally one every three blocks and even I could find one so I assumed she must be desperate. Could I explain how to get there (droit, gauche??)? No.
Did Sam and I walk here there? Yes. 

Buying Produce at the Grocery


For all of you planning to pack it up and become an expat, here is a tip that might save you some time and embarrassment. When you go to the grocery produce department, grab your clear bags and stuff your endive, radishes and turnips in them, don’t just put them in the cart. This would be an egregious error.
First, you must bring them to the nice person (not really) sitting in the produce department next to the scale to weigh them all and price them for you prior to going to the check out line. Yes, this is someone’s job. They do not weigh them up front. The Paris Dad thinks this is highly inefficient. I think it is nice that someone has a job. He has spent too much time in corporate America.
On the flip side, the produce is fresh and amazing, and you always know what it costs before you check out!

Pigeons


I once lived in London. In London there are rather large signs hanging about that state:  “Do not feed the pigeons. They are a health hazard as well as a nuisance.”  Indeed, health hazard and a nuisance.  This has been ingrained in me for quite some time now.
This is Pete the Pigeon. Pete lives in our courtyard. Pete lands on SJ’s bedroom balcony all the time. Bread regularly goes missing here. Pete is freakin’ bigger than any poulet I can buy at the Monoprix. I am not accusing my son of anything, but, we don’t have screens here and I really don’t want this in my house.


Although I am not fundamentally opposed to eating squab.

The Bounce

Yes, I know all of my male friends will disagree here, but hear me out.
For a city that has a lingere store about every 65 feet, it doesn't appear that anyone is shopping at them. I get the whole 'bras-are-optional-here' thing, but it seems a bit extreme. For young people this can be cute and alluring. However, once you have had several kids, it is time to make a stop at the lingere store. Or at least give up the white t-shirts. And if you are pregnant...? Really?


Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Things I (heart) about Paris

Greetings from the 16th Arrondissment! We have officially been here one month and are LOVING it thus far (completely recognize we are still in the honeymoon stage!).  I feel like the month has given me some perspective and I wanted to share some of the things I <heart> about Paris. Of course, the next entry will be about the things I do not <heart> about Paris.
Here is a list of the obvious things to love about Paris that I will not be covering in this entry: pastries, outdoor markets, architecture, museums, cobblestone streets, baguettes, espresso, cafes-o-plenty.
Now, on to my list. 

Lunch

I freaking love lunch. Really, I am a huge fan of all meals, but lunch here is profoundly different. The pace here is generally slower (painfully slow at first), but I have acclimated to the rhythm and am starting to enjoy a little more pleasure, and a lot less rushing about.
The workday here begins sometime between 9:30 – 10 a.m.  When I was working at home, I regularly was in the office before 7:30 a.m.  Insane.  Here, you spend time with your family. Enjoy an espresso on the way to the office. Don’t rush. Breathe. This was very hard for me to do.
12:30 rolls around and what do you do? You go out for a really long, decadent, enjoyable lunch. With wine. It is expected that you leave the office for lunch. Pretty much required. So, off you go to a local bistro and enjoy time with your friends. You don’t rush. You have more than 30 minutes. It is a beautiful thing.
And this is my new favorite lunch. Salad chevre chaud. Happy.


  Pets are People too

Pets are allowed everywhere here. This little pupster was curled up at a neighborhood bistro on the booth. Just relaxing.


Pups are allowed on the metro, on the bus, in restaurants, in bakeries, in cafes, in stores. Except the grocery where there are regularly three or four dogs tied up outside. Again, just relaxing.
And since pets are people too, they clearly need pharmaceuticals. And if your pet needs a prescription here, you must get it filled at the pharmacy.

 Skinny, Well-Dressed Men Sleeping

It is no secret that I have a thing for skinny, well-dressed men. My ideal man is somewhere between Dr. House and Roger Sterling. The Paris Dad is aging nicely into this role, so we are all set.

At any rate, since things move slower here, if you find yourself tired mid-day, it is acceptable to just lay down somewhere and nap. And then some insane American woman will take your picture.

 (I did send this one <above> to Annette Benning immediately after taking it and described him as quite possibly the perfect man. Don’t you agree?)



 Sundays

Most of you reading this blog are old enough to remember (although perhaps not admit) that everything used to be completely closed on Sunday.
Well, that is still the case here. Sundays are delightful. Outdoor markets, church, and time in the park. The parks are crazy crowded with families picnicking and relaxing.


 Unless you are out of milk. Then it kind of sucks.

 Velib

What is Velib? Velib is the mother of all bicycle sharing systems. There are over 18,000 bikes spread across 12,000 stations throughout the city. Literally, there is one every few blocks.
For €1.70 you can rent the bike for the ENTIRE day! Or anything under 30 minutes is free. So if you want to bike to another area, just grab one and go. And you can return it to any other Velib station. It rocks.


 My Induction Stove

Okay, this is not Paris specific, but our flat has an induction stove. I can boil water in 90 seconds. It is quite possibly the best thing that has ever happened to me. Sad, I know. Sometimes I boil water just because I can.
All of my crazy cooking friends will totally get this.


Cheap Wine

And it is good wine. Cheap. Need I say more? And Parisians love their rose...


 Au revoir for now! I am sure the things I don’t <heart> will be slightly more entertaining. LOL